Here's a little image that should help in understanding which templates work for which parts of DevExpress PivotGrid. My goal was to change the header of the row in PivotGrid (to be precise the header of the PivotGridField in RowArea)
<dxpg:PivotGridField x:Name="fieldProduct" FieldName="ProductName" Area="RowArea" AreaIndex="2" AllowedAreas="RowArea" ValueTemplate="{StaticResource productNameHeaderTemplate}" />
customizing appearance of pivotgrid
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